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Popular Threads
People who change their oil frequently say, "Of course the manufacturer wants you to change it at 5,000+...they hope to sell you a new car." They never think about the unneeded oil changes that are advised by oil change companies and mechanics! Their motives are as pure as the driven snow...
You CAN reset it yourself. My Accord has the same thing, and iirc, you reset it by turning the key to the accessories, then holding the trip meter. It had the instructions in the owner's manual, you might check yours.
This site also claims to have the answer for the Odyssey, but I'm not totally sure I believe it. Worth a shot, anyway: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_reset_the_main...
AJ
That engine has 280,000 miles on it. Many of those were highway miles, but still... 280,000 miles.
Sure I've had to make some repairs...At various times I've had to get the clutch, the brake cylinder, and the water pump fixed. But the engine and transmission (other than the clutch) are still working well. And with some conservative hypermiling such as coasting, slow accelaration, and turning the engine off at long red lights, I recently got over 30 mpg out of it.
I do oil changes myself on our Honda when the maintenance reminder light comes on but use Mobil One synthetic from WalMart. The BMW is covered by BMWs free service plan until 50K miles, but it normally about 17->18K when the BMW maintenance indicator comes on (varies with average mpg apparently). The motorcycle I change once a year regardless of mileage with Mobile One. Same with push mower, lawn tractor and pressure washer - once a year with Mobile One; since using synthetic they start easier in cold weather too.
if you really want to save money automotive wise you need a spreadsheet like this: http://dotnetworkaholic.com/non-tech-science-of...
The instructions are in the manual for our 2008 Honda CR-V. I suspect they are in yours too. A quick Google found this page: http://www.mechanicki.com/2007/07/27/how-to-res...
DIY is easy, but be sure to check the dipstick on level ground after running the engine for a minute or so. Don't forget that overfilling is bad too.
An option to really optimize the oil change intervals it to save a sample of the used oil and send it for analysis to a lab. I'm not sure exactly what the cost is (probably not too much), but the results can tell you exactly when you need to be changing the oil for your particular driving habits. It also looks for trace contaminants that'll warn of premature wear, leaky gasket, etc. far before it's obvious. I've never done it myself, but I might look into it once the car gets a little more mileage.
Modern "dino oil" is pretty good stuff, but you can generally run a little longer on synthetic oil. Most manufacturers don't give a specific recommendation (they don't want liability if you blow your engine), but various experts have their opinions. Some high-end oil manufacturers do guarantee longer intervals, however. For example, I believe Amsoil guarantees their oil for 10k miles.
I've heard various things about what happens if you extend the intervals past the manufacturer's recommendations and something goes wrong. I have no source for this, but one thing I've heard is that they'd have to prove lack of oil change was the cause to refuse warranty. I don't know if that's actually the law, and wouldn't really want to be stuck arguing the fine points of law with a dealer. Simple advice, like Flexo said, is to just monitor the oil level regularly and watch when it gets dirty.
My 16 year old Nissan had 150k miles on it with never any engine problems when I sold it. I changed the oil religiously every 3k miles.
3K changes is 66 changes @ $110 = $7,260
~17K changes is 11 changes @ $110 = $1,210
$6K difference of your after tax money. This not even factoring the time you take to have the car serviced - say $50/hr and it takes an hour per service; that is another $3300 for the 3K intervals! Ouch. Hence why I do DIY: I can do it in an evening and not take time off work, use quality oil and know the job is done correctly. A dealer once way overfilled one of my cars which is asking for future engine damage.
I'm going to take a guess and say that since the interval is so long, BMW wraps some other routine maintenance into those oil changes. Unless you have to disassemble the engine to get at the filter, there's no way an oil change alone should cost $110. Maybe some inspections, air filter, etc.
If you go to some cheapo Jiffy Lube or whatnot (I wouldn't), I'd expect to pay $20-$25. Probably cost about the same to get oil and a filter and do it yourself with comparable parts - although the peace of mind is priceless.
I end up spending about $40-$45 per oil change on my car for supplies (I change it myself), but I use Mobil 1 synthetic and a high-end K&N oil filter. I got my oil changed at a garage once with Mobil 1, and that cost me about $65.
Anyway, your point is still valid about saving money by using longer change intervals (that's the whole point of the thread), but the math is a bit skewed if you assume people are paying $110 every 3k miles. If I do the math for my schedule:
5k changes (40 total) @ $45 = $1800
Still more, but only $600 instead of $6k.
I totally agree ~$60 is more in line for what an 7qt synthetic oil change should cost. There are people online who say BMW charged them up to $300 though!!! In my experience many luxury car owners have zero clue and dealerships are all to happy to take advantage.
BMW is a little different from most manufactures. The have four years/50K free maintenance which is pretty much just a new oil+filter+wiper blades every ~17K miles. In four years I normally get two new free sets of front rotors/pads and one set of rear rotors/pads too. Some people on the BMW forums seem insistent 15->19K is too long so pay for changes every 3, 5 or (mostly) 7.5K miles and are normally charged $110.
Yours is a good choice of oil and filter which should last up to 20K miles, 5K is a little overkill IMO, but you DIY and as you say it does not cost 'that' much more. I tend to over analyze though: http://www.dotnetworkaholic.com/csharp/download...
>>although the peace of mind is priceless.
Totally agree, which is why I DIY with quality oil too. That and I normally contract so an hour or two off work to get a car serviced can be way more than the oil change itself.
But at the dealership I noticed lots of people bringing in their new Acuras, but there was one 80+ year old lady who was bringing in her 1990ish Acura Legend for work. The car look immaculate, but I'm just wondering why she's paying the dealership outrageous prices to fix her car that's worth less than $2k when she could get my import mechanic who specializes in these older Japanese imports?
The absolute best way to determine your ideal oil change interval is to get an oil analysis done. The oil analysis companies will check for iron, copper, etc. and then give you some guidance regarding the "ideal" oil viscosity and change frequency for your car and driving style.